Restaurant review: Boulder's Rib House

BOULDER, Colo. -

About five years ago, a friend got married outside of Austin, Tex. and served the guests barbecue: messy ribs, potato salad, corn bread, the works. It was a quirky, yet memorable, choice. And it was recently on my mind as I sauntered into the Rib House, Boulder's iteration of the iconic Longmont barbecue joint.

Setting up shop at One Boulder Plaza, on the southwest corner of 13th and Walnut, the Rib House occupies a challenging space previously occupied by Prima Ristorante. It would be a shame if Prima's fate also befell the Rib House, which offers one of this town's more sumptuous and affordable protein fests.

Full disclosure: I have never been a die-hard barbecue fan, and until eating at the Rib House, I couldn't distinguish between the Kansas style method of slow cooking and other barbecue traditions. (Kansas style barbecue uses different types of meat, including pulled pork, pork ribs, burnt ends, smoked sausage, beef brisket, beef ribs, smoked or grilled chicken, smoked turkey and sweet and tangy sauces.)

So this novice ordered Carol's Beef Rib Basket with two sides ($11.79) with few expectations. I discovered savory, homemade spicy "Bar B Que pit beans" swimming in a hot sauce with brisket. The beans were well cooked and neither too salty nor bland. My other side, the spicy chipotle potato salad lost me with its sassy kick. The spiciness overpowered the delicious smoky pepper flavor. My companion's regular mashed potatoes and the four-bean salad were both tasty. The kitchen makes all of the side dishes by hand, and the fresh ingredients were crisp and flavorful. They came in reasonable-sized, small serving dishes that allowed more than a taste but prevented us from gorging ourselves on a super-size serving.

But I wasn't there to pick at side salads. I wanted flesh. I dove into a basket of boneless beef ribs and experienced the delicacy of tender, fresh meat cooked for hours over low heat, and served with a side of delicious sauce. Ah, yes, the sauce. The merits of Rib House sauce are likely being hotly debated online by the barbecue elite as you read this. My observation: both the medium and the Jessica's Fire Sauce were like classy chaperones for the juicy meat. Without dominating the meal, they each, in their individual way, upgraded what would have been a fine basket of ribs (and a delicious brisket sandwich for my friend) to a 10-paper-towel lunch--high praise in the barbecue world.

Meals at the Rib House offer a variety of choices. Order ribs in quarter-pound increments with separate side dishes. Choose from six sandwiches. Eat the ultimate comfort food: deep-fried wedges of breaded mac and cheese served with ranch dressing. Feed the fam with a $30 picnic pack that includes 1.25 pounds of meat of your choice, two pints of side dishes, four buns and four brownies. Or indulge, as I did one evening, in the ribs that landed the original Longmont-location Rib House on the map: Tracy's Famous Illegal Ribs (half slab $15.79; a full slab $22.7). The Rib House menu is a real-life choose-your-own-adventure experience that won't disappoint.

Whatever you do, leave room for dessert. The enormous portions are absurd, so tread lightly with the $6 carrot cake. It can feed a small army. It should. But it is so moist, so rich, and so delicious you may accidentally try to tackle it alone. Do so at your own risk.

Our friendly and prompt service ensured full water glasses, answers to questions and informed advice about the menu. The wait staff is casual, which befits the entire feel of the place, and the clean, roomy interior would make a great bustling restaurant. My visits found only a quarter- to half-full dining room. This is a friendly restaurant with delicious food. Owned by Merry Ann and Tracy Webb, who opened the Longmont Rib House in 2001, the Boulder iteration simply aims to continue the legacy.

Unlike my Texan friend, I'm not sure I'd choose barbecue to cater a wedding. But I will make a mental bookmark on the Rib House. With reasonable prices and a spacious interior, I can foresee holding birthday parties or other celebrations there. It's a good game-watching spot, with a full bar surrounded by three flatscreen televisions. And with such savory choices, it's a good stop for a fine meal, day or night.

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