The first time I ever tasted seitan, a high protein meat substitute made of wheat, I was 16 years old, riding large Atlantic ocean swells on an ancient wooden sailboat with 11 other Outward Bound students. The cooks that evening (two of my fellow course mates) seasoned our lumpy seitan with such a heavy dose of curry powder that it took years before I could again stomach either ingredient. Pity my introduction wasn't at Boulder's Leaf Vegetarian restaurant, where the BBQ seitan ($15) satisfied a serious desire for comfort food without triggering memories of that stormy night.

Inevitably, some diners who eat vegetarian (either exclusively or occasionally) have stories of unrecognizable ingredients peppered with dull or overwrought spices and condiments. In fact, eating one step lower on the food chain can be a gastronomic good time. So it goes at Leaf, where the open dining room with beautiful high ceilings, bright and cheerful walls, expansive windows and thoughtfully placed plants, small fountains, and other decorations imbue the area with a refreshing, relaxed.

Next come the sights and smells of the carefully prepared food. Fresh, vivid, and occasionally beautiful, the dishes coming from Leaf's kitchen don't carry your typical brussel sprout. Even the basic lunchtime blackened tofu and veggie sandwich ($8) appeals to the eyes, arriving on hearty bread in a deep embrace of colorful carrots, avocado, tomatoes, and more.

The tastes are rarely disappointing. Rich vegetable flavors in interesting combinations and unique garnishes like red pepper aioli or roasted tomatillo synchronize to soothe and satisfy.

Put simply, you don't have to be a vegetarian to enjoy Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant, but you do have to appreciate food. Leaf's dishes range from predictable to adventurous, and the restaurant shines in its diversity of options, which are inspired by multiple ethnic menus and range from bi bim bop ($13) to polenta Napoleon ($15) to vegan enchiladas ($15), my personal favorite. Bursting with corn, squash, a variety of beans and served with cilantro rice and roasted tomatillo and tomato salsas, the enchiladas were like an autumn harvest wrapped in a tortilla and bathed in a fantastic spice. My only regret was the size of the portion. I wished there was more.

Among the more unexpected options was the banana curry ($14), an inspired curry dish with sweet (apples, raisins) and savory (cauliflower, peas, and potatoes) ingredients. The curry was not as spicy or sharp as one might find in an Indian restaurant, and its mildness risks disappointing aficionados. However, once I abandoned comparisons and appreciated the dish for its individual flavor and presentation, I found little to complain about.

By contrast, the service at Leaf left much to be desired. Whether the restaurant was full or not, each time I ate there, my companion and I felt ignored. Service happened in stages punctuated by long absences. First we had menus and silverware, but no water. Then water arrived, but no order was taken. When we finally accomplished that necessary task, it took the food a remarkably long time to arrive. Requests for tea or other drinks (Leaf serves beer and wine) were forgotten, and, once the meals were consumed, waiving down the bill was another commitment.

At lunch, this delay prevented time for dessert. At dinner, we were more assertive and specifically asked the waiter to bring the dessert menu (each item $6) early in the entrée course. We ordered before they cleared our plates. The strategy paid off. Both the vegan carrot cake (with soy cream icing) and the pumpkin brulee capped off delicious meals. The cake was moist, and the icing was on par with the creamiest cream cheese icing I associate with carrot cake. The brulee was tasty custard with a twist of pumpkin and a lovely caramelized sugar top.

Food can be extraordinarily political, and Boulder is well known for healthy residents who strive to eat organic, locally produced, low-impact foods. Leaf helps that effort without smugness or a superiority complex. Leaf could grandstand on the philosophy of the "Omnivore's Dilemma" while patting itself on the back for its success. Instead, the restaurant simply cooks good food well. Not only is the food generally delicious, it is usually healthy and nourishing. It incorporates ingredients that are outside of the mainstream. But unlike my unfortunate introduction to seitan, Leaf leaves diners eager to try ingredients they may not recognize and leave them wanting more.

Contact dining critic Rachel Odell Walker at boulderdining@gmail.com.