Columnists

Weidner: Film tour rocks Boulder

Wicked Gravity

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

If you go

When: 7 p.m. Sept. 10

Where: Boulder Theater

Cost: Tickets are on sale now for $12 at Neptune Mountaineering, The Spot Bouldering Gym and the Boulder Rock Club, or $14 at the Boulder Theater

Details: reelrocktour.com; senderfilms.com

Leaving the ground is often the hardest part.

It certainly was in March when I sat beneath Musta’ Been High in Eldorado Canyon (5.13c R), which is one of the hardest — and possibly most dangerous — traditional routes I’ve ever done.

I had rehearsed the route on toprope a handful of times over three days to memorize the powerful, sequential moves and the tricky gear placements. I hoped the gear was adequate to keep me from hitting the ground if I fell. I didn’t want to find out. The route is only 60 feet tall, but what it lacks in length it makes up for in difficulty and commitment.

On the morning of March 12, the conditions were perfect: The air was warm, but the rock remained cool in the shade. A slight breeze helped dry my already-sweaty palms as I tied in, preparing to leave the ground. I knew I could do the moves, yet I knew there were points on the route where I simply couldn’t fall off if I wanted to walk back down the trail. Nothing else captures the essence of hard trad climbing like the commitment of being on the lead end of the rope, the “sharp end.”

The commitment in hard trad is exactly what Boulder filmmakers Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen capture in their latest film, “The Sharp End,” which is the feature presentation in this year’s Reel Rock Film Tour launching Sept. 10 at the Boulder Theater.

“Our journey begins in the climbing mecca of Boulder, Colorado,” goes the first line of the film. Boulder hardman Matt Segal climbs Musta’ Been High, but near the top of the route something goes terribly wrong. He fumbles the sequence and falls off with a scream, ripping his gear as he plummets toward the earth. Exactly what I had feared.

Mortimer says, “We just wanted to focus on the best stuff to watch, which is people scaring the (expletive) out of themselves.” And that’s exactly what you’ll see, from highball bouldering to alpine climbing in Pakistan to hard trad around Boulder and the Czech Republic. “Then,” explains Mortimer, “it just gets crazier and crazier.”

You’ll see Steph Davis free soloing The Diamond, Ammon McNeely climbing A5 on El Capitan, Chris McNamara wingsuit jumping and finally, Dean Potter free soloing a difficult rock route on Switzerland’s infamous Eiger with a base jumping rig (just in case he falls off — yikes!) In “The Sharp End,” you’ll see riveting footage taken in Eldo, Boulder Canyon, the Flatirons and The Diamond of Longs Peak.

Perhaps the best reason to be a part of this event is that the majority of the featured climbers in “The Sharp End” — Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, Matt Segal, Topher Donahue, Vera Shulte-Pelkum and Tommy Caldwell — are Colorado locals, most of whom will be at the event. Filmmaker Josh Lowell, also of Boulder, will present his new “Dosage” video filmed in South Africa, featuring Boulder locals Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods.

The Reel Rock Film Tour is more than just a movie; it’s a celebration of climbers’ passion for adventure. It’s an event that stitches together the often-disjointed community of diverse climbers by bringing us all together under one roof, if only for one raucous night. This year marks the third annual event, and after the world premier in Boulder, the show will travel to more than 80 cities worldwide.

You won’t want to miss this year’s Reel Rock Film Tour in Boulder, as it celebrates our extraordinary, outlandish and passionate community of climbers and outdoor adventurers.

Tickets are on sale now for $12 at Neptune Mountaineering, The Spot Bouldering Gym and the Boulder Rock Club, or $14 at the Boulder Theater — and they go fast. Last year, the show was sold out by the morning of the event, and this year it’s sure to sell out even faster.

Bring your ticket stub to Boulder’s b.side lounge for a fun and free after-party. Also included in your ticket purchase is a free day pass at The Spot Bouldering Gym.

Contact Chris Weidner at cweidner8@gmail.com.

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